A Terrible Day in Paradise

The first golden rays of sun crept through the branches of the jacaranda tree as the sky turned from pink to orange, and the guttural cries of howler monkeys pierced the air. After turning on the kettle for tea, I silently walked into the main bedroom to awaken my two steadfast travel companions, my teenage daughter and her best friend. The day was off to an auspicious start as we savored fresh papaya and pineapple while packing our bags.

On this, our final day in Playa Grande on the West coast of Costa Rica, we were treated to a unique surprise as a family of howler monkeys emerged from the forest to munch on the sweet yellow blooms of the jacaranda. It was time to hit the road to see Costa Rica’s volcanoes.

Half an hour into our journey the winding roads inland became steeper, and our small white manual transmission car began to struggle. A harsh burning smell emanated from the engine as we ascended a particularly long and treacherously steep hill. Halfway up the hill the car stopped dead, the clutch destroyed.

We waited for an interminable time on the thin shoulder of the busy road at a precarious angle for the rental company to bring us a new car. Heavy trucks blew past us within inches, shaking the car vigorously.

Soon enough we were back on the road in a beige midsize, which had no issues handling the rest of the drive. I was feeling optimistic, but little did I know our problems had only just begun.

I found out the hard way that our GPS couldn’t be trusted as we began driving down a gravel road through what looked like an industrial area. As we continued, the gravel became coarser and the industrial area gave way to thick jungle foliage. Finding a spot to pull over and re-group, we noticed another car parked across the road. Soon two men emerged from the car, one of them wielding a machete.

Not wanting to take any chances, I executed a three-point turn and drove away. I had to suddenly slam on the brakes as a family of coatis (cute bushy-tailed jungle raccoons) emerged from the jungle and began to cross the road in a single file.

In the rearview, I kept a close eye on the approaching machete-carrier while impatiently waiting for the coatis. After the last animal was safely across, I hit the gas, sending up a spray of gravel and dirt.

Through some miracle, we eventually found our forest lodge. As we emerged from the car, our host noticed that our right rear tire was completely flat. What a day! Feeling restless after being in the car for hours, we decided to explore and stretch our legs. We set off into the jungle, on a hike to a waterfall.

Amid the giant columned trunks of ceiba trees, my daughter cried out in pain, clutching her arm as a large, black flying insect flew hastily away. The mysterious insect had stung her twice.

Her panic was palpable as a searing pain spread from her arm to her chest, and I began to fear the worst. From where we stood, I could see the waterfall and a large pool below it. Making a snap decision, I led her down to the pool and submerged her in the cold water. I was prepared to stab her with her friend’s epi-pen and rush her back down the rough trail to seek medical attention. Luckily, the cold water did the trick and the pain began to subside.

Once this latest crisis was averted, we finally relaxed and took note of our surroundings. It was truly breathtaking. The towering waterfall broke through the dense foliage of the jungle and a stream wound its way through gigantic stones to the deep, crystal-clear pool where we swam and frolicked.

Despite the terrible events of the day, I realized how lucky I was to be standing in an untouched paradise. Nothing seemed unmanageable after that; and in that pure, blissful moment, a feeling of true contentment emerged. In moments of struggle, I find myself back at that waterfall and smile.