In the Footsteps of Giants - Thinkers, Tyrants, Kings, Rebels
- Daniel Monoogian
- Jan 25, 2024
- 21 min read
Summer 2023. Picture it. I had nine glorious weeks off. I deliberated quite a bit over what to do and where to go. I looked at safaris in Kenya, India expeditions, South American hikes and Nordic getaways. Eventually, I decided to design my own trip.
Over the course of 19 days, I visited five countries. Landing in Athens, I traveled to Armenia, Georgia, Denmark and Sweden, before finally arriving back in Canada.
I have included below my raw, unedited journal notes from the trip (with photos). I've added some commentary in green text where I thought appropriate. I hope you enjoy.
August 10, 2023 - Ottawa, Canada to Athens, Greece
8+ hour flight with a screaming almost 2-year old. Felt for the mom. Had the whole [middle] row to myself and was able to sleep for a couple of hours. Still dead tired at the moment. Was thinking of touristy stuff but may just find smokes [bad, Dan!] and sit at a café - or - stash my luggage and have a walkabout. We'll see! More later.
It's 9 hours in the future. Having a coffee at the bustling intersection of Athinas and Ermou by the Monastiraki Metro. Some time to kill before Airbnb check-in so will amble. Maybe the Roman Forum, Hadrian's Library and the Agora.
Walked around a bit, but with luggage it was unpleasant. Was able to check in early.
Asparagus (sp.?) Hill - overlooking Athens [actually Dan, it's Areopagus]. The sound of the cicadas remind me of Split. I've only been here less than three hours and I'm in love. We owe much to the Greeks and Greek philosophers. I got in trouble with the Airbnb guy for checking in early.
There are the faint remnants of structures on this hill, carved out of the hard rock. Straight lines, imprints of dwellings or temples.
Cypress and olive trees behind the Theatre of Dionysus - with the ever-present cicadas - IT IS DAMN HOT.
Green parrots in the spruce.
Sitting on the terrace - got a souvlaki and spanakopita for just under 6 Euros. Oh and a Fanta for good measure. The sun's still shining but I'm K.O.'d. As in I could go to bed right now.
Sailing tomorrow.
Oh did I mention the terrace view of the Acropolis. I only hit two of the 7 attractions on my pass - I can probably cross off most of the others on Saturday. Sunday beach day?
August 11
Sailing day! And a beautiful day for it. Again, hot as Hades. Made it to the boat just on time after sleeping from about 9pm until 7:30am. Will have to adjust the AC as 20C was too cold last night. Perhaps either turn it off or set it to 22 or 23. [Nobody is interested in these details, man.]
Quite an interesting day all said. Ran around the Piraeus Pier trying to find the ship, made it just before 9 then had coffee and a slice of sweet loaf. Ended up sitting with a Lebanese bachelor party and had some great convos [short form of conversations] with them throughout the day. Now I'm sitting on the Metro heading back and I thought I had gotten too much heat yesterday...try baking in the sun for 10 hours...but well worth it. Our first stop was Aegina, which is famous for pistachios. So I tried some pistachio gelato which was fantastic.
We then sampled some pistachio products and I bought a small bag as a souvenir (for someone lucky) [Note - I ended up eating them]. Back on the boat as we headed to a swim spot and lunch. We got to jump off the top deck of the boat into crystal blue waters. One of the Lebanese guys dropped his snorkel mask and I dove deep to retrieve it. They were impressed. [They asked if I had military training.] Lunch was tasty.
Our last stop was Agistri, where I walked through town and found a shady spot by the sea. Suddenly, out of nowhere, someone from the group under the tree next to mine handed me an icy beverage. I asked "what is this?" and he said "Pisco" and the group was surprised that I knew what it was. I chatted with them until it was time to go back to the boat. The woman and her boyfriend were living in Athens for the last five years; she from Chile, he from Iran. The third person was her friend from Chile, visiting. We had a nice and lively convo covering a range of topics. An unexpected but welcome surprise. [should have taken a photo] Time for one last swim before getting back on the boat for our journey back to Athens.
Pretty hungry so I will change shoes and venture out. I thought it would be a good idea to wear my slides, but I realized as I got on the boat that they had pretty badly cut up my feet. So that wasn't ideal. I walked barefoot around the marina to get to the Metro.
August 12
Fairly low-key day. Woke up around 10, went for a coffee around the corner and read my book. Grabbed my luggage and hoofed it to the next spot. [I should have just stayed at that Airbnb! It was lovely.] Being early, I ate a delicious salad and had a very interesting smoothie (mango and mint). Checked into the Airbnb and was unimpressed. In any case, set out walking to Aristotle's school, where modern thought began. The Lyceum.
[Excerpt from Aristotle's School placard: "It is difficult to appreciate, from the scant archaeological remains on this site, that this spot is one of the most significant places in the history of mankind. Here the universal mind of Aristotle systematized the organization of 'kosmos' (beauty, world) viewing it in a more sober analytical manner than Plato. The Aristotelian thought launching from empirical reality with scientific rigor and method studied and systematized Logic (reasoning), Ethos (Morality), Psychology, Metaphysics and Physics.]
Made the short walk to the Lycabettus Hill Funicular and rode it to the top for stunning views of the city.
From there, hoofed it all the way to Kerameikos, one of the most impressive sites so far. [It was the potter's quarter of the city, where the English word ceramic comes from]. I was at 4/7 sites on my pass. I decided to take the long way home via the Lofos Filopappou Hill behind (beside?) the Acropolis. Lots of interesting things there - including tombs built out of the rock and the Pnyx, the gathering place of the demos (people). Elections and speeches were held here, philosophers spoke from the pulpit. On the way back to the Airbnb, got some Moussaka and Sagenaki to go.
August 13
Last day in Athens. The last few days have been great. The first part of my journey is nearly at an end. It's nearly 6pm and I'm sitting in the park I visited on day one. Fitting way to say goodbye. I ate some Greek donuts on the way over, and I've got sunflower seeds and olives to snack on. Today, I went for a scooter ride tour (spontaneously) which was quite fun. The city is swarming with tourists today, in stark contrast to Thursday. I'm glad I visited the Acropolis then.
After the scooter ride, I crossed the last 3 attractions off my list. The Roman Agora, the Ancient Agora and Hadrian's Library. I think the Ancient Agora might be my favorite site of them all, as they recreated a large stoa with a second floor. Amazing views. Across the Agora was Hephaestus' temple, still primarily intact, so it was easy to imagine how the Parthenon once looked. It's bittersweet to be saying goodbye today but it's time to push on.
I will arrive in Yerevan very early in the morning, so hopefully they will store my luggage and/or let me check in early. My tentative plan is to go to the Yerevan central records. We'll see how it pans out.
Starting to feel a bit homesick but that's just part of the experience I suppose.
August 14 - Athens to Yerevan, Armenia
As previously stated, got to Yerevan ridiculously early. I didn't try to sleep on the plane, though I definitely should have. I'm tired to the bone.
The plane landed just after 3:30am and as I went through passport control and the exit gate I looked for a sign with my name. Seeing none, I figured that the Intrepid sign was likely for me. We smoked as we drove down the dark freeway in a Hertz rental car. Everything looked very strange - and reminded me a bit of Vietnam, the way the small and ramshackle shops were gathered along the highway. We arrived at the Central Ani Inn (or Ani Central Inn) at about 4am. Of course, there were no rooms currently available but I set up in the dated but comfortable lobby.
I struck up a friendship with the bellhop Vlad, and after sleeping for maybe an hour or so we sat on benches outside of the hotel and talked. As the sun came up and people started coming out of the streets, [roving gangs of dogs were the first to emerge] we continued speaking in French - he introduced me to a friend - perhaps a tour guide and driver. They both drove home the fact that I was more than welcome here - that this land belonged to me as well.
Korean tourists began milling about the lobby as they filed into the hotel's restaurant for a buffet breakfast. Vlad snuck me out a couple of pastries, in his palm - then later told me just to go in and eat, and act as if I was a guest already staying there. They had quite an impressive spread. I loaded up on cucumbers, peppers, olives, pickles and more of the super delicious pastries.
I should mention that another person came in at some point during the early hours and took up residence across the lobby. I would later find out that she's the tour leader, from Ukraine - Marischca (sp.?). [It's Marichka]
So, I waited until right before the currency exchange shop opened then set out. The first thing I noticed was that it smelled like Morocco (specifically Marrakech). An earthy, charcoal smell. One interesting thing that I noticed was the prevalence of coffee vending machines, one on almost every street corner. And a cup of coffee costs 100 drams. 1 Euro being equal to 426 drams. So about 25c. It was also the cost of the Metro. A pack of Marlboros is less than 900 drams - about 2 Euros. I'm interested to see how much food costs. I might try a Lamajoon for lunch - or browse the Vernissage market. I just don't think I'm up to the trek to the archives just yet. I feel like I don't have the mental space at the moment - and that's OK.
Vlad says I look like Dan Bilzerian (the poker player) - the second person to tell me that on this trip. Even coming from an Armenian it's sort of funny. Right now I'm sitting in English Park ready to head into the center.
August 15
I should catch you up on my activities of yesterday - went through Republic Square to Opera House and Cascades - amazing view of Mt. Ararat.
Walked back through the Vernissage market - so much amazing art & sculpture to see. Got back to Hotel at 2 and was able to finally check in. I met Jeff, my roommate, and we had about a 3-hour nap before meeting the group at 6pm. Everyone seems very nice! A small group of us went for dinner. I had tolmas and chicken kebab.
Tried to sleep but with Jeff's snoring it was difficult. Finally slept at some point.
After breakfast, we had a walking tour and visited Mother Armenia in Victory Park. After that, a cab ride to Lusik Aguletsi Ethnographic House and an incredible lunch.
I will go check out the Blue Mosque [it was the largest of the eight mosques of Yerevan in the 19th century and is the only active mosque in Armenia today], and read my book in English Park - afterwards, Gum Market close to the Hotel then a group dinner.
August 16
Up at 8:30. Shower, breakfast, then tour of the Megerian Carpet Factory (est. 1917). Saw the carpets being woven, one double-stitch at a time. A large carpet could take 8 months of daily stitching. Hard work and fascinating.
Went from there to the Kond neighborhood, a patchwork of DIY homes on a hilltop. Had lunch at a local house of lavash, cheese, veggies, potatoes, chicken, apricot juice, Armenian pastries (must remember the name) and peaches.
Then cabbed to the genocide memorial and spend a contemplative moment - a solemn place. Walked to the National Archives where I took a number and am waiting to be served - it's about 40 minutes until closing so unsure if I'll get any answers here today.
August 17
Up just after the sun. I didn't get the answers I was searching for yesterday unfortunately - after about 10 minutes they called my number and after waiting again for someone that spoke English, they kindly informed me that they couldn't help unless I had the name of the village that my great grandfather was born in. However, they offered to carry out the search if I emailed them my information. That was nice! So I'll need to figure out that situation. Will have to do that once I get back.
Yesterday, took the Metro back downtown and visited The Bookinist. They had a great selection of English books so I chose a Chuck Palahniuk book. I went to Delgett (sp.?) [Dargett Brewpub] brewery and read my book - had both a cherry beer and an apricot. Met up with the crew for dinner at Varstan (sp.?) [Vostan Restaurant]. Had a salad with greens, eggplant and sundried tomatoes. We walked back through Republic Square and saw the Singing Fountain. Also I had a banana soft-serve ice cream cone.
August 17 Proper - Yerevan to Dilijan
Woke up ages before my alarm, much to my chagrin - around 7am - made a coffee and began getting ready. We left Yerevan after breakfast and boarded a private bus to Geghard Monastery. Simply breathtaking - including the scenery.
From there, off to Lake Sevan and Garni Temple. Waters so blue you'd think you were in the Mediterranean. [I begged for a swim, but was denied] Then, off for lunch at the Molokan House (the Armenian Amish). Totally amazing lunch in an idyllic setting. The Molokans are a religious sect that was forced to flee Russia or be persecuted.
Then finally off to our Hotel in Dilijan - really cool rustic spot. Went for a short hike with Lies until sunset, then had a beer with Lies, Jeff and Lucy on a cool patio just down the hill. What a fun day! Off to Georgia tomorrow.
August 18 - Dilijan to Tbilisi, Georgia
We made it to Tbilisi after a 5-hour van ride through some beautiful Armenian countryside. Tbilisi is astounding! Very modern city in comparison to Yerevan. Tons of interesting architecture and great food. After checking in to our beautiful Hotel adjacent to the hot springs, I gathered my dirty laundry and went to the laundromat. In about 40 minutes it was done and I dropped it off back at the Hotel. Then Jeff and I headed up the hill to the castle - featuring breathtaking views of the city.
After a short rest we met up with the group and went for dinner at a fantastic and quaint restaurant. We drank tons of Chacha (54% alcohol!) and some great red wine [some beer as well]. The night turned a little messy and I ended up playing some guitar [poorly]. Was very drunk but felt good. No drinking tomorrow!
August 19
After a very restful night I woke up shaky but otherwise in good spirits. After some coffee and breakfast I was right as rain. We met the group and tour guide at 9am and had a 3-hour walking tour of the old town finishing with a cable car ride to the Mother of Georgia. More later. Off to a deluxe room in the hot springs!
[There were many more highlights of the walking tour - seems like I didn't feel like they were worth mentioning. The first was the statue of the Tomada - a traditional role at parties and social gatherings - essentially a "Toastmaster" who kept the party rolling, and drank out of a horn. I tried to embrace this role at group dinners throughout the trip.]
The hot springs were amazing - I was joined by Z, Lies and M. We had a huge, hot room with a piping hot tub, a cold tub, sauna and a scrubbing area. I moved constantly from the hot to cold. Z had a scrub and then the Master insisted that I have one as well. It was quite the experience - I shed lots of skin...
After the bath I set out walking towards Fabrika and the Urban Garden. Ran into a movie set (a Spanish tomato fight scene) as well as a crazy man with blue paint on his hands, leaving polka dots on the white buildings along a grand, almost Parisian avenue. It's a beautiful city, tons of art & interesting architecture. I tried a pastry which reminded me so closely of a Montreal bagel - tasted like home.
After a very brief rest, Jeff, Lies, Lucy and I went to a Georgian/French fusion restaurant called Metis. On the walk back to our Hotel, we came across a musical street performance with some really interesting dancing.
August 20 - Tbilisi to Gudauri
Up early today and breakfast as we made our way to Gudauri. We stopped at the Uplistsiche cave complex which was truly fascinating and which looked like something from a Star Wars movie set. Tons of hollowed-out cave dwellings. Sort of reminiscent of an archaic Athens. A place of early Paganism.
Afterwards, a guided tour of the Stalin museum. We also saw the house he grew up in and got to walk through his private train car!
Quaint lunch at a local's house - I had the cheese khachapuri and an excellent white wine. Lunch was in a garage with all sorts of wacky stuff on the walls. Of course, the host served us his homemade Chacha. Marichka cut us off when he asked if we wanted more...
After lunch we went to the impressive Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (with tons of hidden passages) as well as Jesus' tunic [mantle] and a piece of his cross. One of the sites of the first churches. We also visited the Jvari Monastery on a hill overlooking the church - quite old and beautiful with an amazing view of the town and three rivers converging.
Next, a drive to our fabulous ski Hotel in Gudauri (Gudauri Loft Hotel). The drive into the mountains was breathtaking. We had a decent buffet dinner then a few drinks with one of the staff who had some amazing stories and who kept bringing us drinks. Did not sleep much that night as the snoring was intense - was up at 5am and walked down to the 24-hour supermarket as daylight emerged.
August 21
After breakfast we got back into the van and drove to Stepansminda - first stop was the Russian/Georgian "Friendship" monument - with breathtaking mountain views - then onto a 1km hike up the mountain - about 2K elevation to Gergeti Trinity Church.
Really beautiful place. It's even difficult to describe the splendor & majesty. We took a series of gondolas and chairlifts back to the hotel. Truly a unique and spectacular experience. Spent the rest of the afternoon and early evening in the Hotel pool - splashing about with Lies and Marichka. A special dinner was prepared for us - fried fish, cheese, beef stew, Georgian salad and green salad, khachapuri....oh wait.
I forgot to mention our lunch in a village where we learned to make khinkhali - that was also super filling and delicious. After dinner, a beer and lively conversation with Z, Lies and Lucy. Early to bed - around 11.
August 22 - Gudauri to Telavi
We left after breakfast towards Telavi - we stopped at an old church by the reservoir which supplies Tbilisi with all of its water - a Russian dam built during the Soviet era, covering up an entire village and old church. Those damn Soviets.
Stopped at another small town (may have been Telavi...have to confirm) and saw a 900-year-old tree as well as an old fort (I should have been writing this down). We checked then into our "Wine Hotel" which was quite picturesque with a beautiful outdoor pool and gardens - before heading to our wine tasting.
We had a delicious lunch - food was plentiful, fresh and delicious - as has been every meal thus far. Toured a local man's winery - still using the traditional 8,000-year-old method - and tasted some delicious amber wine, red wine and Chacha. Not to mention fresh cheese, sunflower oil and bread.
Slightly buzzed and content we returned to our hotel (our room had amazing mountain views) - had a nice swim then hung out drinking the wine that we had bought - Z ordered chicken at some point - we listened to music, danced and were merry. [Note - we may have been too boisterous, and received several complaints. We slunk guiltily back to our rooms.]
August 23 - Telavi to Tbilisi
In the morning, we checked out after another yummy breakfast. It was off to Telavi for a market tour, where we procured some local goods for a picnic; everyone in the market was super friendly. Got a cheese khachapuri, some pickled peppers, a peach and the string of candied walnuts. We carried on to Sighnaghi (sp.?) [Signagi] with our Telavi guide - very interesting and quaint town, with its defensive walls still intact. The "City of Love" - with beautiful architecture and monuments.
We then visited the Bodbe monastery, a more modern, renovated site but still beautiful - got a coffee and a beer - the last 2 items for the picnic, as we sat in the shade and shared food and stories.
After returning to Tbilisi, I dropped my bags, got some cash to tip Marichka (and for dinner) then briefly explored the botanical garden.
The group met at the hotel at 7, then had a lovely dinner. I had the Adjourian Khachapuri (with egg) and a beet root salad. Also finally tried a Black Lion beer. Was feeling melancholy as we walked back to the hotel, and I said my goodbyes to Marichka. She did something very sweet - she printed a group photo for each of us. What a nice touch and thoughtful gesture. Hung out on the terrace with Z, Lucy and Lies as we reminisced about the trip; Z bought me two large beers and we had a heart-to-heart after Lucy and Lies went to bed. He left around midnight and I decided to stay up...
August 24 - Tbilisi to Copenhagen, Denmark
At 3am I got in a cab to the Tbilisi airport. Very tired and a little buzzed - but mainly tired. Got onto my flight to Istanbul and slept most of the way - but in no way felt rested as I navigated the bustling airport. After finding my gate, had a Turkish coffee and waited. From Istanbul to Copenhagen, I slept most of the way but again, felt no more rested. But the time went by quickly.
After activating my City Pass I boarded the Metro and a few short minutes later I emerged into the City Center. I'm now just waiting to check in, trying to decide what to do this aft. I'll choose a couple of sights, and maybe go by bike. More later!
Later...
Arrived finally in Copenhagen and took the Metro to my hostel. I think we're up to date from my other journal. [Clearly there was some overlap between the two journals] Checked in and got a free token for the bar for the inconvenience of waiting - nice! Cool place. Although the rest of the facilities are definitely not as nice as the bar. Got a top bunk near the door.
After dropping off my gear I set out, with my City Pass in hand. Decided to first stop at Rosenburg Castle. Very quaint and lovely grounds and richly decorated. [Built in 1606 by Christian IV as a summer house. How posh.] Afterwards, visited the Botanical Garden with a special exhibition - the Palm House. I was in heaven.
Afterwards, a visit to the Round Tower - very fantastic spiral path and amazing view from the top - what a beautiful city!
After the tower I happened to be in the right area for one of the boat tours included in my pass. They said I got the last ticket - but I was doubtful as they kept letting people on. We had a wonderful guide and passed under several bridges - saw the waterfront! Again, an idyllic city with stunning architecture (still need to experience by bike - Sunday if weather cooperates).
Feeling very hungry, I walked back over into Christianhavn and went to POPL Burger - if I can't get into NOMA this seemed liked the next best thing. I got a table by the window and ordered a sour beer, veggie burger, fries, pickles, ketchup and mayo. Everything was delicious despite the burger being a little juicy - something in the veggie toppings - probably the juicy tomato!
Being very satisfied, I walked back via the "kissing bridge", a unique feat of engineering past the famous picturesque colorful street (name?) [Nyhavn]. Back at the hostel, I redeemed my beer token. Was quick to fall asleep.
August 25
Copenhagen Day 2! After a pretty decent sleep, I showered and got ready for the day. I walked towards Tivoli Gardens and passed a nice coffee shop so I decided to grab an Americano and Dutch custard pastry. After getting to Tivoli and discovering that it didn't open until 11, I visited Copenhagen City Hall - really beautiful building! There was even a very happy queue of people waiting to get married - the general excitement was palpable.
After spending a couple of hours at Tivoli Gardens riding rollercoasters, I was famished so I had lunch at Karla - Danish meatballs with potato salad, pickles and rye bread with butter. Delicious.
I continued on to the Danish Architecture Center, then the "Black Diamond" - the modern addition to the Royal Library. There was an interesting exhibit on Danish video games as well as a photography exhibit. I was getting a bit tired by this point but I decided to push on to Christianbourg - the active Royal palace. I visited the ruins under the castle, the reception rooms as well as the Royal kitchen - it was just after 6pm by this point so I walked through Amelianbourg Castle and over to the fort - weather was perfect and it was a beautiful evening.
Walked back via the Little Mermaid statue [based on the 1837 fairy tale of the same name by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen]. I was really exhausted by this point. Got back to the hostel and it was BUMPING. Thought it was a special occasion but it was just a typical Friday. I wasn't really in a festive mood so I decided to do laundry. While waiting for my wash I went to grab a beer at the bar. After my laundry was done I went for food - got a crispy halloumi German Doner (all dressed) with fries and a ketchup/mayo dip mixture (and a Coke)! Ate in bed while finishing watching "The Package" - really good food and funny movie. Passed out shortly after. Tomorrow, Malmo!
August 26 - Malmo, Sweden
Woke up a bit early today - sometime around 7:30 and grabbed a coffee at Coffee Collective - a really bright Kenyan bean - filter brew. Sat and read in the beautiful inner courtyard. Met a nice dog. No dogs roaming free here like Armenia & Georgia. Got a refill to go and went back to the hostel - packed and hit the road.
The trip to Malmo was quick and I arrived before 11am. After scoping out the Hotel, walked down to the beach through the paths & waterways surrounding the fort. Visited the incredible Ribersborgs open-air bath - and was nude for about 3 hours - sat in the saunas, swam in the ocean and sunned all of my parts. The Swedes have the right attitude - there's no shame in being naked - in fact, no bathing suits are allowed in the saunas. Had a beer and read my book - a lovely afternoon.
After walking back to check in to the hotel, went for a stroll - writing this in front of St. Johannes church. Must go in search of dinner - hopefully some Swedish eats at Siesta.
Siesta was decent - had both the Smorebrod and the Swedish meatballs - both very tasty. It felt strange to be retiring before the sun was fully down but such is life when you're traveling solo. It's almost as if I was self-conscious at being out alone at night, when friends were meeting up, people were going on dates, etc. Although it was glorious to stretch out in the Hotel bed; the room blissfully quiet and the perfect temperature - no snoring, no noises from the street. I just ate my candy and watched Netflix and was content. I must have gone to be before 10, because I woke up around 7:30, feeling very refreshed; the sense of my last full day of the trip beginning.
August 27 - Back to Copenhagen
Out in search of coffee in the quiet early morning Malmo streets - found Espresso House in the main square by City Hall - read my book on a bench and watched the sun breech the rooftops until it was time for my scheduled buffet breakfast. Food was decent - including cheese buns and a crepe stuffed with Nutella and topped with peanut butter! After officially checking out I stopped by the Malmo EY office (or at least found the logo - it was Sunday after all).
The remarkably short train ride brought me back to Generator just before noon. After dropping my bag I rented a bike for 4 hours. After trying in vain to find an open tattoo shop I biked through Christiania - but didn't know it at the time - and ended up at the incinerator. I considered skiing but ultimately didn't go for it. The view was nice but it definitely smelled like hot garbage.
After a few wrong turns I finally found the main road - and stumbled upon the main gates of Christiania - a magical fairy-tale land - hippies meet graffiti artists meet crack dealers. A seemingly lawless community (that makes its own rules). Had a pint of beer at Nemoland and then biked through the narrow lanes. What a place!
After one more stop at Handshake Tattoo I returned the bike. Luckily, I found a bunch of coins and five arcade tokens on a table - so I played some pinball and Point Blank. Even though it was only about 4:30, I set out for Puk - and it was fantastic. Patio in a picturesque courtyard, where I sat beside a fountain. I had a five-course dinner of traditional Danish cuisine - I was stuffed but happy. I had just enough time to make it to Palads for the 6:30 showing of Oppenheimer. A lovely walk back through shimmering, rain-soaked streets was magical. Read my book a bit back at the hostel and fell asleep quickly.
August 28 - Copenhagen to Montreal
Last day! Felt a little melancholy this morning but also excited to be heading back home. It feels like it's been about 6 weeks since I landed in Athens. This trip has had so much depth - connections, adventures...it's hard to put into words. I must write a blog post in the next few days, before the memories of these sights, sounds, smells, emotions and sensations start to fade.
For my last morning, I went back to Coffee Collective and that beautiful courtyard. After another coffee at the hostel, I checked out and walked to grab a few souvenirs and snacks for the airport. Another quick Metro ride and I was at the airport, through security, and soon leaving the land behind.
Still a ways to go before I'll be able to sleep in my own bed...
August 29 - Montreal to Ottawa - Home Sweet Home
What a journey. After a very tiring day of flights and layovers I finally made it to Zoe's apartment in Montreal. We hung out for a bit then we both crashed! I woke up early - around 7 so I decided to take the 9am train - I called and reserved on my way to the station; perks of being a Preference member! Got to the Ottawa station and hoofed it home. It was a beautiful day for a walk! I just relaxed in the backyard for the afternoon, and fell asleep on the couch by 10:30pm.
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