Two Months In - The Highs and Lows of the Growth Zone

Bohemian Switzerland

I’m writing this sitting at my desk in front of my large bay windows in my massive bedroom in the Prague 2 neighborhood. If I look to the right outside my window, I can see the giant telecom tower (Zizkov tower) which is formerly known as the creepy baby tower. The faceless, naked baby sculptures which were once crawling up the side of the tower have now been relocated to palm springs (https://www.palmspringslife.com/david-cerny-babies/) - an odd choice! The babies now have to be segregated into an inaccessible sandbox as their black fiberglass surfaces become flaming hot to the touch in the sun. This material was also the reason for their removal, as their structure couldn’t hold up to the high winds whipping around the tall tower. But don’t worry, you can still see some of the babies in Prague across the river.

Creepy Babies in Prague

It’s hard to believe that it’s been nearly four months since I left Canada and all semblance of familiarity. Since getting on a plane on a hot summer’s day in Montreal in August, I’ve been to countless cities in nine countries - Spain, France, Italy, Croatia, Bosnia Herzegovina, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, and Germany. I’ve flown across the Atlantic, then the Adriatic, crossed many borders by train (without ever being asked for a passport, thanks European Union) and saw the first traces of snow while driving back through a misty night from Berlin to Prague (hopefully the last traces).

In September, I took a day trip from Split (Croatia) to Mostar (Bosnia), which was the site of some of the most violent and bloody fighting during the Bosnian conflict of the early '90s (great BBC documentary here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX3Fcu0uA8A&t=432s). I tried to picture the environment during that conflict, and had trouble, as, having led a peaceful and insular life in Canada, I’d never experienced the fear and uncertainty that plagued citizens on all sides of the conflict. The closest I’ve ever come to that experience was being forced to remain in my office in the downtown core of Ottawa when 24-year-old Corporal Nathan Cirillo was shot and killed at the War Memorial near Parliament Hill on October 22, 2014. In the early 90s this war was barely on my radar. I’d see news clips but it had no impact on me. All I recognized was that Bosnia was somewhere else, then I would go back to my video games and riding my bike, thinking about girls and collecting hockey cards.

The New Old Bridge, Mostar

Mostar is now a picturesque, tourism-driven city, although you can still see abandoned structures riddled with bullet and mortar holes, interspersed with beautifully restored buildings. The Old Bridge, which is a huge tourist draw, was completely destroyed during the conflict and was rebuilt. The locals call it the New Old Bridge. The people in Mostar are jovial, and happy to sell you some five-dollar scoops of ice cream. I had a somber moment of reflection when I stumbled across a cemetery filled with young men whose epitaphs all ended in -1993.

Last weekend I took a weekend road trip with some friends to Germany and visited J.S. Bach’s tomb in Leipzig, as well as the remnants of the Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin. Cait and I had an nice dinner at Lokal, including a delicious Cote du Rhone, beef tartare, homemade pasta and an excellent selection of cheese for dessert. Despite the amazing food and scenery, I couldn’t help but feel steeped in history, walking in the shadows of momentous occasions in human history. It was humbling, haunting, yet at the same time I found it difficult to form a meaningful connection to these places.

Checkpoint Charlie Now and Then

Prague - a Unique City

At the end of September, we had a smooth transition from Split to Prague, where, for the first two weeks of October, we had incredibly beautiful weather. Most people in our group were grateful to once again be in a “city”, with multiple food choices and amenities, including an excellent public transportation system. Armed with a monthly Metro pass, the city was an oyster just waiting to be cracked open. Prague is a city built on top of a city; I explored the ancient sub-levels on an architectural tour - saw the stripped away layers of centuries of architectural evolution and changes in fashion. I walked down grand tree-lined avenues on crisp autumn afternoons.

This month I’ve drunk all of the beer in Prague, as well as eaten all of the bread, meat and cheese. This included a guided tour (with lots of sampling) of the Pilsner Urquell brewery in Plzen - the birthplace of pilsner beer, the recipe upon which approximately 70% of beer worldwide is based. I was given a taste of the original recipe brewed in the 170-year old tradition of fermentation in large open-air oak barrels.

Of course, no Czech meal would be complete without some fried cheese. Goulash was a staple of mine this month, served in a bread bowl when available. The moral of the story is that I consumed all of the calories. When a large local draft beer is less than two dollars (at a pub no less), it’s very difficult to say no. Charcuterie boards were enjoyed plentifully.

In my happy place in Plzen.

I also took a trip to the very picturesque “Bohemian Switzerland” or “Czech Switzerland” to the NorthWest of the country. A short bus ride from Prague, we had a traditional lunch (more goulash and dumplings, and of course, beer) followed by a scenic hike through evergreen forests climbing through steep sandstone hills. Once we reached the top and took in the incredible views, I felt as though I deserved more beer and helped myself to two before stumbling back down the trail.

Highs and Lows (and how to deal with them)

High - Time flies when you’re having fun

The weeks literally fly by - they have been packed with a myriad of activities; tours, weekend trips, cultural excursions, dinners, hikes, celebrations (drinks!), etc.

Low - Difficulty in embracing moments amidst the chaos

With such a jam-packed schedule, it’s tough to “stop and smell the roses” as you’re flying from one adventure to the next.

Solution: Document, document, document. Carry a small notebook and pen to record short-form notes on your thoughts and feelings in the moment. This is something that I need to get better at. At the same time, try to be present in the moment and take in the beautiful views, taste the flavors and have the presence of mind to really listen.

High - Having overly ample opportunities for fun

There is always a group of people doing something, whether that be getting together to try a new restaurant for lunch or dinner, or checking out a jazz club, opera house or night spot. On any given weekend there will be several options for side trips. A whole world of possibilities opens up before you and you want to do it all.

Low - Remaining productive and the feeling of missing out

Remember - it’s that 9-5 (Eastern time!) job that’s allowing you to be on this great adventure, financing your fun and new experiences. You will feel like you're missing out - but that's OK.

Solution: When it’s time to work, put your nose to the grindstone and don’t look up until you see the finish line. Above all, meet your deadlines, be productive and be visible. At the same time, be flexible with yourself - take an extra hour at lunch to meet up with your friends for an elaborate meal - but be accountable - make sure you’re making up the time somewhere else. Realize that you can’t do everything and the things you choose to do before and after work should be meaningful.

High - Leaving your comfort zone

Going to a Halloween party dressed as a baby, wearing only a diaper and a giant soother. Going to a country where you know zero words in the local language and nobody speaks English. Getting comfortable with gesturing at menus. Opening up your heart and spilling your deepest fears/insecurities/desires to people you only met a handful of weeks ago. Experiencing the rush of being in unfamiliar territory and having to adapt on the fly; being okay with not knowing the answer.

Low - Missing family and friends back home

Despite all of these new friends and limit-pushing experiences, the constant stream of unfamiliar can make you miss the comforts of home, especially your close family and friends. Personally, this is the biggest low that I have experienced, and it’s especially heightened in situations where I don’t know the local language/unfamiliar customs.

Solution: Reach out to people back home - frequently. Set up video calls, send lengthy emails. Ask for pictures and send pictures. Communicate ad nauseum. Invite every single person you talk to to come and visit you. Post like a maniac on social media. Embrace the unknown.

Departures

Tomorrow, our group will be packing up and heading to Lisbon, hopefully for a slightly warmer climate. Transition periods are surreal as it feels as though just as you’re connecting with the city, you’re leaving. We will be hosting a “Leftover Brunchover” at our apartment tomorrow morning, where anyone who has extra food left over can bring it by and we have a feast. This usually includes fairly generous amounts of mimosa and beer. Call it Transition Day Lubrication.

Ciao for now. See you in Lisbon!